For years, black women have attempted to tame their hair, but it ruthlessly fights back. Many do not understand it and are too nervous to ask about it. So, here is a guide based off of my own journey with my hair.
1. There’s no such thing as wash and go.
If you go on YouTube and look up “black women wash and go,” you will be given roughly two million videos to choose from. Because for black women, wash and go actually means wash and style. If a black woman were to actually “wash and go,” she would be left with a dry, matted mess. A wash and go typically takes about 30 minutes to four hours, depending on hair texture, length and desired end result. Usually a black woman will soak her hair in leave-in conditioner, then split her hair into workable sections. Next, she’ll clear out each section. She’ll usually put her hair in twists next, then lets it air dry. The drying process usually takes several hours, so most black women go to sleep with the twists in. When the twists are dry, she takes them out and makes sure her hair is evenly distributed. Then she’ll take a toothbrush or a small brush and brush her edges – the small baby hairs on her hair line. The end result, if done right, is typically one that looks effortless
2. Shrinkage is real.
Never look at a black woman’s hair and assume the length is what she’s actually working with. Shrinkage applies to most women with curly hair, but it is the most drastic for black women. Shrinkage can hide up to 90 percent of a black woman’s true length. Stretch out one small section, and you’ll learn that hair that appears to be ear length is actually past her shoulder. Shrinkage is viewed negatively, but is actually a very good indicator of healthy hair. A black woman’s hair is stronger if it shrinks up more. Clearing out, blow drying, or straightening will reveal the hair’s true length. But once a black woman’s hair gets wet, if it shrinks back up, that’s a clear sign that her hair is healthy and not damaged.
3. Getting their hair did (that’s how you’re supposed to say it).
In all honesty, assuming a black woman spends $100 a month on her hair is generous. Going to the hairdresser to get her hair done can add at least another $200 a month. Often times, black women will be charged based on the difficulty level of their hair and not the actual work they want done. Most black women enter the hair dresser in the morning and don’t leave until late afternoon. While at the hairdresser, a black woman will probably get a good nap in while under the blow dryer, watch a few episodes of Judge Judy or Family Feud, get up-to-date information on the most recent gossip, “take a break” to go get lunch, pick up her kids from school and make it home just in time for dinner. This is in no way an exaggeration of a day at the hairdresser.
4. Not all black hair is created equal.
Hair texture can be categorized using the numbers one to four and letters A to C. 1A hair is practically straight, and 4C hair is the “kinkiest” hair can get. The loosest a black woman’s hair gets is usually 3A, which is a loose curl and probably means she’s mixed. What works for a 3A woman’s hair is probably not enough effort for a black woman with 4C hair. Most are quick to assume that black women’s hair is all the same, and that is simply not the case. Often times, a mother and her daughter or two sisters can have completely different hair textures. A black woman can be born with practically straight hair and grow up to have 4C hair. Because of this diversity among hair, black women are often well-versed in how to take care of multiple different hair textures.
5. Natural hair is a choice, not a political statement.
The natural hair movement is meant to encourage black women to embrace their natural hair and end the era of black women relying so heavily on “creamy crack” or perm, which chemically straightens their hair. Despite the efforts to build black women up, many have instead labeled their natural hair as unruly and unkempt. Natural hair is now seen as a statement to fight against “the man” instead of just being hair. Black women cannot control the way in which their hair grows out of their head and therefore don’t appreciate being persecuted for it. Most black women do not wake up in the morning with the intent to make a statement about her worldviews through her hair. She instead wakes up with the intent to wear her afro loud and proud because that’s the hair she was given.
Black women’s hair is possibly some of the most misunderstood and underappreciated kind of hair. Most people do not understand the struggle it takes to maintain it or the joy that comes when a black woman finally finishes a style that took her all day. Black women’s hair is definitely not for the faint of heart. It’s a force of nature that cannot be reckoned with. But all the money, the time and the struggle are worth it to have such unique hair.